Nylon jams in Cetus hotend

鲸蜡 Help Section

peter101 2020年3月27日晚上8:08 #1

I am printing using the newer metal hot end but with the original 10CFM cooling fan and Nylon is the first filament material that I have given up on.

聚碳酸酯、碳纤维聚碳酸酯、聚丙烯、聚酯、ABS、柔性等，印刷效果都很好。
尼龙12将在大约10 c ov不断挤压er the Nylon suggested upper temperature range but it foams or bubbles as it extrudes so the print has no strength. This happens even if the Nylon is seriously vacuum dried at 1/10,000 of an atmosphere. Lower the extrusion temperatures the Nylon jams in the heater.

只是想知道是否有人，包括Tiertime，已经成功地用这种热端印刷尼龙。
-彼得

纽特沃洛 March 28, 2020, 3:33am #2

你用的是钢喷嘴吗？我和你在不同的打印机上有完全相同的症状。我还彻底烘干了灯丝，并以5度的增量将温度提高到20摄氏度。我换了一个黄铜喷嘴，然后在推荐的设置下打印得很漂亮。

不过，我对Cetus还不熟悉，我只想说谢谢你，Peter，分享了你这么多的知识。

peter101 March 28, 2020, 8:39pm #3

不客气。
带有钢喷嘴的新加热器。我做了一些测试打印更换单位，并比较他们与旧的打印与原来的破碎挤出机。我认为旧的挤出机产生了更好的打印，所以我修复了它，现在使用的零件都从。基本上是旧的挤出机和新的加热块。旧的挤出机维修需要一台车床和一些小滚珠轴承。不是火箭科学，但你需要车床。
要在300C下打印，您需要在加热器块和喷嘴周围进行更好的隔热。经过改进的隔热层需要4分钟才能达到300摄氏度，如果没有经过改进的隔热层，预热5分钟后，加热器的最高温度达到约260摄氏度。
-彼得
Pic清理灯丝路径。

冷端内衬塑料管还是？？？

Jason-TT March 30, 2020, 3:15am #4

如果你印尼龙，发现长丝挤出时起泡。这是吸水的证据，尼龙吸水是很常见的。这与hotend无关。我觉得你烘干灯丝的方法不管用，试着用烤箱把灯丝烤一会儿。

peter101 March 30, 2020, 7:01pm #5

嗨，杰森，我希望修复是那么容易。

I happen to have a two stage, oil sealed, 50 liter/minute scientific vacuum pump. The vacuum reached is below 1/10,000 of an atmosphere which is much better than heating to eliminate moisture, plus low vapor pressure organic compounds, and air that has dissolved or diffused into the filament etc.

我没有一个足够灵敏的秤来称量干燥前后的线轴，以测量去除了多少水分。我拥有的最好的指标是使用x10光学放大镜，检查290C印刷的透明无混搭聚碳酸酯清洗线。在真空干燥后的前16个小时内，我没有发现任何气泡，第二天我可以看到吹扫管路中有一些小气泡。真空干燥尼龙没有气泡，只要我不超过最大挤出温度。有趣的是，尼龙在超过最大挤出温度时，其化学分解和形成气泡的速度有多快。

In the new cetus extruder, I think the Nylon melting point position between the cold and hot end just happens at a bad point and the Nylon sticks to something. I would do more experiments but I don’t think the white tube liner in my cold end will survive any more Nylon printing tests.

要清楚的是，我可以加热和挤出尼龙刚刚超过260摄氏度，它仍然没有气泡，但在所需的时间，以移动喷嘴，并开始打印吹扫线它堵塞。在270摄氏度挤压，它没有堵塞，但你得到一个打印充满气泡没有力量，所以不是一个非常有用的打印。

It would be good to know the maximum service temperature of the white liner material to be able to melt out filament jams!!!

最后，通过简单地改变冷端上的气流，你可以上下移动熔体的位置，以解决尼龙粘粘的问题。

Best Wishes,

Peter

Jason-TT April 1, 2020, 9:04am #6

Hello Peter,

If you are sure the filament are dry, then I think the filament likely not compatible with the hotend.
We have tried esun, polymaker and Taulman nylons, we found the Taulman nylon (forgot which type) was very sticky in the hotend and cannot be extruded. The eSun and Polymaker filaments have no problems.

kirkdis33 April 13, 2020, 1:16pm #7

嗨，彼得，

working here with a MK2 with stock brass nozzles and Nylon works great with mine. Even Nylon/GF combo printed nice. What I changed two years ago was the fan position. So I don´t cool the tip and the middle piece of the hotend only the top part next to the motor. Maybe this could be a worth a try…

techsalad 2020年4月24日凌晨3:10 #8

大家好，

一段时间回来，我是捣乱与忍者犰狳灯丝，我发现温度公差是太紧的股票加热器块设置。要在0.4毫米厚的柔性织物上打印，我需要+/-2摄氏度的温度公差。我安装了一个上部喷嘴稳定器柱，降低了喷嘴中的热区，并允许拆除将加热器块安装到金属支架上的两个管道。尽管管子和螺栓是不锈钢的，但它们从加热器块中吸热，使喷嘴侧面的情况更糟，因为没有足够的热量使灯丝均匀熔化。我还减少了冷却击中喷嘴尖。

Cheers,
布伦特

techsalad April 24, 2020, 4:03am#9

从另一个帖子…

“需要的速度”-一个mod包，提高了Cetus的打印精度

I found a manufacturer of PTFE tubing that reduces those amounts of friction. It’s the Capricorn XS brand. They have a 4mmOD x 1.90mmID PTFE tubing… I highly recommend the Capricorn XS tubing, it’s pure PTFE and is very slippery. The 1.90mmID versus 2.00mmID also reduces friction by some amount, especially flexible filament. The XS type is rated at 340deg Celsius. They also have the XS type in 3.00mmOD x 2.00mmID, this is the size in the upper neck of your nozzle. I believe the tubing that comes with a standard nozzle is only rated to 200deg Celsius, so if you are printing at above 200deg Celsius, then the tubing is degrading at an advanced rate and over-time will contaminate the filament as the tubing burns, so frequent cleaning is required, by removing the tubing and wiping clean the black grunge of burnt filament and burnt tubing. The other thing happening before the burning is deformation, so it will no longer line-up with the surface of the lower brass part of the nozzle as engineered by Tiertime. There is very little room for error here, if the nozzle ptfe tubing is not perfectly square at the bottom end, there will be filament delivery issues. If the nozzle tubing is too long it will flare and choke the filament creating filament delivery issues. The problems created when using a standard PTFE tubing above the rated 200deg Celsius are numerous…basically most of the problems reported by Cetus owners when filament is not delivered to the print-bed as expected.

如果喷嘴中有黑色燃烧残留物，则有未对齐的部分和/或材料的额定温度不符合喷嘴的预期工作温度。

一个简单的方法来监测你的喷嘴健康是注意灯丝是如何退出喷嘴尖，如果它出来完美的圆和直，那么事情很可能是好的，在你的喷嘴内，如果它卷曲或打嗝…嗯…事情不顺利，在你的喷嘴。

peter101 May 7, 2020, 4:06am #10

谢谢你的建议。

我测试了原始的MK2加热器和更换MK2.5钢喷嘴版本。不幸的是，两者都不会打印尼龙，所以我要继续。

从积极的一面来看，我非常擅长清理大量的喷嘴堵塞。

两张真空干燥尼龙丝的照片。第一个是排气管中的水气凝结，第二个是压载放气一小时后的凝结。压载空气使油变干，这样你就可以得到比水蒸汽压更好的真空。在第二张图中，真空度在1到10帕斯卡之间。
-彼得